Recipes, food discussion, and general food geekery. All amounts approximate.
Sunday, July 18, 2010
Curried Goat
Here's a real general version of how I make it, though I tweak it some:
1 kg goat, in large cubes
2 bay leaves
3 black cardamoms
8 green cardamoms
6 t coriander
1 t cumin
2-3 T chopped garlic
2-3 T grated ginger
2/3 C oil
1 C chopped onion
1 t cayenne or other chile powder
4 whole dried chiles
salt, pepper to taste
2/3 C tomatoes, chopped
1/2 t tumeric
2/3 C whole milk yogurt
Late cooking:
a couple cloves chopped garlic
1-2 t ginger
Marinate goat in yogurt and salt for at least an hour.
Heat the oil in a large pot and crackle bay leaves, dried chiles, and cardamoms (I usually lightly crack open the casings of the cardamoms with a mortar and pestle). Toss in the onions and cook until lightly browned, then add ginger and garlic. Cook for a few minutes, then add coriander, turmeric, cumin, and chile powder. Add the goat with the marinade, stir for a minute or two, then add water or stock to cover. Simmer it until approaching tender, then remove the lid to cook down to the desired consistency. Add tomatoes along with late cooking garlic and ginger, and again cook to desired consistency, making sure not to cook to long as you want some of the raw taste of garlic and ginger. One of the modifications that I usually make is pulling the goat pieces out before adding the tomatoes in and shredding them with a pair of forks (into about pulled pork kind of consistency), before adding it back for the final cooking. This may not be authentic, but I think it helps the texture and how moist it is. Eat with Naan.
Double or triple that recipe if you are lucky enough to get yourself a whole bone in leg of goat. Also be prepared to spend some time breaking it down (took me more than half an hour the first time, and I'd already broken down a couple of deer by then).
Saturday, May 8, 2010
Basil and Pepper Chicken Alfredo
cracked pepper chicken. You'll have to forgive the fact that I
don't have exact proportions on this so I'm just kind of
estimating; taste it as you go and decide how much you want to
put in.
For the alfredo sauce:
1/4 cup butter
1 cup heavy cream
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 1/2 cups freshly grated Parmesan cheese
pinch nutmeg
For the chicken:
2 boneless skinless chicken breasts
1 package Fresh basil (usually ends up being several handful
of leaves)
1/2 tsp oregano
1/2 tsp rosemary
1-2 tbsp black pepper
olive oil
garlic 2-3 cloves
Start by cleaning the basil and carefully cutting the tops
with the flowers off, you'll need to save two of these as
garnish for the dish (I think it's a little better than the
customary parsley sprig). Slice the rest of the basil into
strips; set aside a small handful of the sliced basil to go
into the alfredo sauce, the rest will be cooked with the
chicken. Mince the garlic cloves. Using a spoon or a mortar
and pestle coarsely crack the black pepper (can use a pepper
mill, but it'll take a long time to grind that much pepper and
most pepper mills will grind it too finely). If you have a
mortar and pestle grind the rosemary, if not just crack it up
by hand.
In a large deep skillet heat the olive oil at a little more
than medium heat, saute the garlic until it is beginning to
turn a light golden; add the chicken. As the chicken is
cooking add the basil and pepper slowly, allowing the the
basil added before to cook down some before adding the next.
Completely cook the chicken and remove from heat.
In a small pot melt butter in a medium saucepan over medium
low heat. Add cream and simmer for 5 minutes, then add garlic
and cheese and whisk quickly, heating through. The sauce will
look fairly thin at this point but will thicken as it cools.
Pour the sauce into the skillet with the chicken and add the
fresh basil, heat on low.
Cook the fettucini noodles according to instructions, strain
and add a small amount of olive oil to keep them from
sticking. Place fettucini on a plate and top with alfredo and
chicken, garnish with the basil flower.
To really make this impressive a few things should go with it;
make a good loaf of french bread and keep it warm (or buy and warm one), baked brie is an
excellent accompaniment to the french bread. A simple salad
with a light basil and rosemary vinaigrette is a nice starter,
and definitely get a bottle of wine for the meal (and
probably another for after). For the wine I would suggest a
flavorful red, but not one that is too dry (a merlot will
typically work well), and get a good bottle (spend more than
$15 a bottle unless you really know your wine, I would suggest
a merlot from benziger wineries, they tend to be less dry
wines with a good flavor, run about $18 a bottle, though it's
a hard winery to find).
Saturday, April 24, 2010
Jagerschnitzel
Breaded pork cutlet with an absolutely delicious mushroom and bacon gravy. Alright, so this probably isn't something your arteries would appreciate you eating with any regularity, but it makes a hell of a meal with a side of simply sauteed asparagus and some spaetzel or egg noodles.
1 1/2 pounds pork loin, trimmed and cut into quarter inch slices1/4 - 1/3 cup all-purpose flour (based on enough to make a roux from the bacon drippings)
1 t freshly ground black pepper
5 cloves garlic, minced
1 t paprika
1 egg
1 cup milk
1/3 C cream
2 T dijon mustard
panko bread crumbs
1/2 pound bacon, diced
1 medium yellow onion, diced
1/2 lb sliced button mushrooms
6 T red wine (burgundy preferably)
oil for frying
1 cup beef stock
2 T unsalted butter
2 T chopped fresh Italian parsley
Salt to taste
Brown the bacon over medium to medium low heat
Dip pork in egg, then coat with panko; fry in 350 degree oil until golden brown and fully cooked.
When the bacon is browned remove from the skillet, leaving the fat. Saute the onion and garlic, then add in the mushrooms and saute. Push the mushrooms, onion, and garlic to one side of the skillet, toss in the butter, and tilt the skillet to separate the fat from the veggies. Make a roux using the flour (1/3 C is approximate, use enough to make a roux of proper consistency); cook the roux for a minute or so.
Add the cream, milk, wine, mustard, paprika, and pepper and allow to cook until thickening. Add the bacon back to the pan along with the parsley. Adjust the gravy to the proper consistency by adding the beef stock a little at a time and allowing to simmer; you may not need all the stock. Adjust seasoning to taste and serve on top of the breaded pork.
Greek Phyllo Roll
2 T butter
1 small onion, finely chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
1 1/2 lb ground lamb or beef
1 c chopped tomato (I often increase this and use a whole can of chopped tomato)
1.5-2 inch stick cinnamon
1 t dried basil
2 eggs, separated
1/2 c grated mizithra or kefalotyri cheese
1/2 t grated nutmeg
phyllo (the stuff I use comes in a box with two plastic wrapped portions; I use one of those)
melted butter for brushing the phyllo
2 hard boiled eggs, sliced
1 T chopped parsley
salt and pepper to taste
1.5 c whole milk
4.5 T butter
4.5 T flour
More melted butter for assembly
Directions
1. Melt butter in a large frying pan and saute the onion and garlic.
2. Add the meat and cook, then add the tomato and cinnamon, cover and simmer for 20 minutes.
3. Remove the lid, season with salt and pepper, keeping in mind the cheese may add to the saltiness.
4. Remove the cinnamon stick, stir in the basil, and cool the meat.
5. When cool mix the egg whites into the meat; this mixture may be made a day in advance and refrigerated.
6. Sauce: Melt 4.5 T butter in a sauce pan and add the flour; whisk together and cook for a couple of minutes; you're looking for a white roux.
7. Add the milk and whisk together while cooking until a smooth sauce is obtained.
8. Add the cheese and nutmeg to this, and taste for seasoning. Cool then whisk in the reserved egg yolks. This can also be done the day before, leaving you with just assembly and baking the day of.
9. Prepare the phyllo base; I put down three pieces of phyllo per layer, putting one running length away from you and two running length parallel ( like l=), with the edges overlapping slightly to form a large rectangle.
10. Brush the whole thing with melted butter, then put down the next layer flipping which side the parallel pieces are on ( =l ).
11. Continue this until you've used the package and created a good base. Transfer this to a large pyrex dish (you want something with some sides on it to catch anything that leaks); don't worry if you overlap the edges of the dish a little, as you'll be rolling this with the filling in it.
12. Spread half the sauce on the base, leaving margins around the edges for rolling.
13. Lay the sliced eggs on the sauce, sprinkle with parsley, then add the meat mixture.
14. Add the rest of the sauce. Roll it up and flip so the seam side is down in the pan; this can be a little messy.
15. Preheat oven to 350 F (175 C) and bake for an hour, covered for the first 35 minutes, then uncover to brown the phyllo. Allow to cool somewhat to set the filling before serving.
Notes: Both mizithra and kefalotyri cheese add different flavors, and both can be hard to find if you're not in an area with a lot of ethnic groceries. I've only made it with kefalotyri once (only found it once), but prefer mizithra anyway. In a pinch (when in lands populated primarily by culinary heathens) I've actually substituted a good white cheddar; it's good, but just not the same.
As far as the meat, I'm usually not going to spring for ground lamb, but ground beef works as well.
Sunday, April 11, 2010
Mushroom and Cheese Ravioli with Smoked Tomato Cream Sauce
3.5 C AP flour
4 extra large eggs
For the filling:
8 oz full fat ricotta
1/4 C romano or parmesan
8 oz mushrooms, minced
1-2 shallots, minced
2 T butter
For the sauce:
~2C heavy cream
two moderate handfuls of smoked tomatoes*
Salt and pepper to taste in both the sauce and filling
*I smoked the tomatoes myself; I made these by mostly dehydrating them then sticking them over low temperature but intense smoke. To be exact I used Mortgage Lifter and Amish Paste (heirloom varieties that aren't too sweet when fresh) tomatoes over a charcoal fire adding fresh wet hickory every 30-45 minutes or so for 2 hours without letting the temperature get past 200 F in the smoker. If the tomatoes weren't sufficiently dry for cabinet storage after the smoker I dehydrated them further until crisp.
Pasta:
Make a well in the pasta, add in the eggs and beat the eggs.
Mix in the flour, adjusting flour/water so you have a just slightly sticky pasta.
Knead for 10 minutes, adding flour as necessary.
Let's be honest, you didn't knead it enough, knead it some more.
Let it rest for 20 minutes.
Now, you can either use a pasta maker, or a rolling pin. If using a rolling pin you might as well double the prep time, and you'll have to guess about the thickness of the dough, because I did all this using the settings on my pasta maker.
Start on the thickest setting, run the dough through, run it through again, fold it in half lengthwise, run it through, then run it through again (flouring as necessary).
Repeat that for each setting on the pasta maker until you reach either the next to thinnest or thinnest setting (depending on the amount of pasta you want to your filling and how much chew you want). This develops the gluten and makes for a somewhat chewy (when al dente) pasta to contrast with a creamy sauce and filling.
Filling:
Melt the butter then saute the shallot.
Add in the mushrooms, salt and pepper (keep in mind the romano will add to the salt), and saute over medium or medium low until you've cooked pretty much all the moisture out of the mushrooms.
Allow the mushrooms to cool some, before adding them to the ricotta and romano and food processoring to thoroughly combine.
Check and adjust seasoning.
Sauce:
Toss the cream and the smoked tomatoes in a sauce pan and bring to a low simmer (don't let it come to a full boil). Keep it here for about 20 minutes.
Add salt and pepper, then puree either with a blender or stick blender. The tomatoes should provide all the thickening agent the sauce needs, but a little romano could be okay if it's not quite there.
Assembly:
Cut the pasta sheet in half, and on one half space out teaspoons worth of the filling leaving enough room to cut individual ravioli.
Seal the other sheet of pasta on top (which may require a little water or egg wash if your pasta is dry, you want a solid seal), trying to minimize the amount of air around the filling.
Cut the pasta using an appropriately sized ring mold or similar (or even a sharp knife if that's all you have, but then be prepared to increment up the prep time).
Cook:
Dump the ravioli in a large amount of salted water at a high boil, and cook to desired doneness (I tend to go for quite al dente).
Spoon the sauce on top, sprinkle a little parmesan and maybe some chopped parsley and serve.
*Additional notes: This is the alpha version of this recipe (came up with it tonight), and all amounts are approximate. That said, the way it turned out, I'd crawl across broken glass for seconds. This also strikes me as a recipe where you could do everything except the sauce and the cooking of the finished ravioli the day before, or even freeze the uncooked ravioli so you could cook the ravioli and make the sauce in a few minutes for a short notice special dish.
Tuesday, March 16, 2010
Cheesecake with Mango Glaze
2 C AP flour
1/2 C sugar
2 t fresh lemon zest, finely grated
1/2 t fresh orange zest, finely grated
1 t vanilla extract
2 egg yolks
1/2 C softened butter
little water to moisten dough if needed
Filling:
5 8-oz packages cream cheese, softened
1 3/4 C sugar
3 T flour
2 t frest lemon zest, finely grated
1 T fresh orange zest, finely grated
1/4 t vanilla extract
5 eggs
2 egg yolks
1/4 C + 1 t heavy cream
Glaze:
juice of half a lemon
juice of half an orange
juice of two mangos*
pinch ginger powder
1/4 t turmeric
1 t sugar
2 t cornstarch
*for the mango juice, seed and peel the mangos, then either pass through a juicer (preferred), or food processor and strain through a double layer of cheese cloth.
Crust:
Mix flour, sugar, then blend in the vanilla, lemon and orange zest. Blend in butter and egg yolks; you may have to add a little water if the dough crumbles too easily. Grease a 9 inch spring form pan, and roll out a portion of the dough on to the bottom of the spring form pan. Bake the bottom only in a pre-heated 400 degree oven for 6-8 minutes. When done, remove and allow to cool. Place the sides on the pan, and start applying the dough to the sides (this is probably most easily done with your fingers). You want a uniform layer, making sure to seal to the bottom of the pan and come up to the top. This recipe makes more dough than you'll need just to make sure you don't have to stretch it. Pre-heat the oven to 450.
Filling:
In a large mixing bowl beat all the ingredients together, adding the eggs last and one at a time. Mix this until smooth, scraping the bowl down with a spatula periodically.
Assembly:
Pour the filling in to the spring form pan with the crust and bake at 450 for 10 minutes, then reduce the heat to 250 and bake for an hour more. The center should still have some movement if shaken when you remove the cake (and the end product will be very creamy, further cooking can make this more cake like, but that's not how I like it). Cool the cake at room temperature for at least two hours, then refrigerate over night.
Glaze:
Bring the mango juice and the sugar to a simmer, meanwhile, mix the lemon juice, orange juice, ginger, turmeric, and corn starch. Mix this in to the mango juice and simmer until reduced by about half, or until it reaches desired thickness. Refrigerate this over night as well, then apply before serving.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Mocha Creme Brulee
10 g espresso roast coffee beans, lightly cracked but not ground
2 oz semi-sweet chocolate
2 2/3 C cream
5 egg yolks
5 T sugar
2-3 t vanilla extract
light brown sugar to top
Pre-heat the oven to 300 degrees. Heat the creme, chocolate, and coffee beans in the top of a double boiler while mixing with a whisk to combine. Continue to heat the double boiler (without boiling the cream) until the coffee flavor has been introduced; meanwhile, whisk the egg yolks and sugar until light. Slowly pour the cream in to the egg yolks, whisking continuously to prevent cooking the yolks. Whisk in the vanilla. Strain the mixture to remove the coffee grounds before pouring in to ramekins. Place the ramekins in to a pan and pour hot water around the ramekins to about half way up their sides. Bake these until a knife inserted in the center of the custard comes out almost clean (there should be some custard on it, but metal should be visible). This takes ~40 minutes, depending on oven and ramekin size. Remove from the oven and allow to cool before refrigerating for at least 3 hours.
To serve, apply a thin layer of brown sugar to the top and caramelize with a cooking torch; this can be done under a broiler, but the results will be inferior. Alternatively judicious application of a workshop propane torch could also work.
Saturday, October 10, 2009
Venison Pastrami
Corning:
2-2.5 lbs lean venison
Quart of water
half cup kosher salt
large handful brown sugar
1 cinnamon stick
2/3 t black mustard seeds
2/3 t peppercorns
4 cloves
4 allspice
6 juniper berries
2 bay leaves
1/2 t ground ginger
1 lb ice
Mix everything except the meat and ice and bring to a low boil. Add the ice, then add the meat. Let sit in the fridge for 10 days in a sealed bag making sure the meat remains submerged.
After that, drain off the brine, then you have an option: if you smoke this as is it'll be salty, damned salty. It's not bad if you stick it on a sandwich at the end with a slice of swiss and some burn your sinuses German mustard, but will be too much straight up. If you want to cut the salt I suggest at least half an hour soak in cold water before proceeding* (See note below). For the next step, you'll need a rub and to put it on smoke (I used hickory, but applewood or mesquite could both work depending on taste [sweeter vs. southwestern]). Give it the first two hours fairly cold, around 130 F, then give it 2-3 hours at 210 F to cook the meat. When you get done you should have a smoke ring in the meat that comes in a third of the depth on both sides and leaves the meat fully cooked.
For the rub before smoking:
1.5 T paprika
2 T coriander
2 T brown sugar
2 T pepper
2 T black mustard seed (crushed, and this can make it fairly hot, feel free to cut down some)
4 t garlic powder
You may end up with more or less rub than you need, ultimately just make sure you have enough to pack down on the meat in a layer that sticks. Anything that falls off is fine, just means you had a little too much; don't try to force the rub in to the meat; it's already pretty heavily seasoned.
Slice it fairly thinly and serve with HOT mustard and swiss, or as a standard reuben.
* Note: in the most recent batch of this is one I actually soaked the corned venison overnight with a couple of changes of water, and I think the salt content ended up just right. I also didn't add salt to the rub.
Saturday, October 3, 2009
Smoked Salmon Spread
I'm going to guess a package of smoked salmon to a little less than a packet of cream cheese, but add the cream cheese in slowly and make sure to scrape the processor down a couple of times. Ultimately the mixture should be a nice uniform pink. A couple of capers to each cracker really makes it.
Friday, September 25, 2009
Thai Drunken Noodles
5-6 dried shitake, soaked in warm water for 10 minutes then chopped
two eggs
3-4 T vegetable oil
1/4 C fish sauce
1/4 C black soy sauce (or soy sauce with a touch of molasses)
1/4 C golden mountain sauce (could substitute soy sauce, but just wouldn't be the same)
generous pinch of sugar
2 shallots, finely chopped
4-6 cloves garlic, minced
Thai chiles to taste, finely chopped (this should be fairly spicy. Serranos could be substituted in place of Thai chiles)
large handful of basil, roughly chopped (try to find Thai basil, has more of an anise note that works well here)
Heat the oil in a wok, saute the shallot, garlic, and chiles; push those up the sides and stir fry / scramble the eggs. Toss in the mushrooms and noodles, and stir fry briefly before adding the sauces. Stir fry for another couple of minutes tossing thoroughly. The basil leaves should be added at the last minute.
This is one of those recipes that can easily be modified, adding bean sprouts at the end of cooking, fried tofu after the eggs (or unfried tofu before the eggs), and just about any veggie you might want. Adding in ground pork or chicken before the eggs would also be traditional (the eggs could also be omitted if you added meat or tofu, but I like them in it)


